Mick wrote on Sep 18^th, 2011 at 7:14am:

What about my questions and sggestions?

Mick wrote on Sep 18^th, 2011 at 9:03am:

I cut my grass first, so it wouldn't bother me just in case it didn't start.  Just touched the starter and started like it always did!

I have a issue with the vacuum line going to the FPR.  It had a crack but it's odd, a short "S" shaped with 3/16" and 1/4" ID.  That's not a standard size at either end, each pipe a bit over standard size by about .015"-.020".  I had some 7/32" ID vacuum line, so I ran a 1/4" drill bit in one end of a short piece with a hose clamp on the small end.  The bend is too sharp and kinked.  The GM part is obsolete.  Any ideas?

A bit of additional question to ones asked earlier.  What's your procedure?  You scope, suspect a shorted injector.  Do you verify by ohming out or using a injector pulser?  If so, looking at pressure or individual current ramping with the scope again like I was thinking of doing?

Here's a capture with the Fluke and BTW looks pretty good on the Solarity too.  Don't see the pintel bump and it's got straight up start to it.  Just wondering if this is because of the one with 9.2 ohms, location of my clamp or something with the other supposedly good measuring ones??

I have captures taken in 2003 with the Perception that slope right from the baseline as they should and show the pintel bump but were taken right on the injector.

Looking forward to lots of good answers.

crackerclicker wrote on Sep 18^th, 2011 at 2:03pm:

No, that's why I mentioned the 9.2 ohm injector.

Yep, that was it, less current draw too.

There are butt splices for vacuum hose that will join two different size vacuum hoses. They are plastic junctions. Those are sold at common autoparts stores. Is there room to take an extra long piece of hose and bend it 360 degress in order to deal wih the kink? Also there are ninety degree junction/splices that would be different sizes.
They are vacuum hose fittings.

Retired wrote on Sep 18^th, 2011 at 10:58am:


How about I go for a week’s vacation before I answer your questions

Retired wrote on Sep 18^th, 2011 at 10:58am:



How about I thank you for a challenging post.

My son has a Sunday night hockey game I will be back.

Mick wrote on Sep 18^th, 2011 at 5:23pm:

It runs pretty good on only five cylinders but a lot rougher on four.

The site I spoke about from Canada would play these games.  A tech would have had a vehicle with a problem that they fixed.  They'd post the symptoms and ask what they'd want to check.  They'd post what was asked for and away it went.  Most used the Modis.

You play hockey in Canada?????  Nah!  

Retired wrote on Sep 18^th, 2011 at 6:47am:

Retired wrote on Sep 18^th, 2011 at 6:47am:


You are familiar with Linder tech so it would be in your best interest to give them call.
You make the call on whether the vehicle is worth the upgrade Bosch injectors, but I will insist you put a matched set no matter what.
http://www.lindertech.com/reconinj.htm

Mick wrote on Sep 18^th, 2011 at 7:49pm:

Called LTS this morning and they don't even have the cheaper Multec's for my vehicle, so I had to go with the Bosch DRI's.  They don't have/do my Multec's because of the frequent short outs.

The guy went on to say that the ECM will go out at 150K.  I told him that I had already replaced the ECM at 14K and it has only 20K on it now.  His response was, "Oh my!!".

What about your diagnostic procedure for injectors?  How do you verify them?  If it's OHMing only, what's the uses for a injector pulser?  LTS even mentions using one on their new injectors if they've been sitting on the shelve for a long time and they pulse their's before shipping.