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'90 Buick start/stall (Read 84,688 times)
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'90 Buick start/stall
Sep 9th, 2011 at 12:35pm
 
My backup vehicle, a '90 Buick developed a start/stall condition.  The below series of screen pictures from a OTC Solarity shows the 5V Bypass drop, ICM pulls the EST low but both return only to finally quit for good.  Also shown is Ref(Hi) from the ICM to ECM and the 1X output from the crank position sensor.

The same thing happened in '03 but I was getting a DTC 42 but not this time.  I've read that if it happens fast enough, it won't set the code.

Checked voltage drops on grounds at ECM and all are good.  I'm about ready to pull the ECM as I did in '03.  The annoying thing is that there is only 5K miles on this ECM!

Am I missing anything??

...
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Re: '90 Buick start/stall
Reply #1 - Sep 9th, 2011 at 1:23pm
 
Does this vehicle have crank sensors or is it DI?

Wondering if your pickup or crank signal is good.

I know that on most with the 7x crank that the harness gets oil soaked and chafed and this causes most of the problems.

Put the vehicle in bypass mode and see if it still stalls out. If it doesnt stall that means the ECM has nothing to do with your failure.

Has this car been eating ECMs or something? I noticed you stated it only had 5000 miles on it. I would be checking around the vehicle for shorted solenoids if so. Transmission solenoids, etc.

Also check to be sure the ref signals go to ground and dont float above ground. If they float you have a bad ground somewhere.
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Re: '90 Buick start/stall
Reply #2 - Sep 9th, 2011 at 1:58pm
 
Randy H. wrote on Sep 9th, 2011 at 1:23pm:
Does this vehicle have crank sensors or is it DI?

Wondering if your pickup or crank signal is good.

I know that on most with the 7x crank that the harness gets oil soaked and chafed and this causes most of the problems.

Put the vehicle in bypass mode and see if it still stalls out. If it doesnt stall that means the ECM has nothing to do with your failure.

Has this car been eating ECMs or something? I noticed you stated it only had 5000 miles on it. I would be checking around the vehicle for shorted solenoids if so. Transmission solenoids, etc.

Also check to be sure the ref signals go to ground and dont float above ground. If they float you have a bad ground somewhere.

Yes, it has a crank sensor, that's what the Ref(Hi) is.  The ICM output from the crank sensor to the ECM and the signal is constant when the Bypass drops to zero.

How do you put it into Bypass mode?

The vehicle is used for family loan outs when their main vehicle is in a shop, etc.

It sat for year without driving on a float charger.  Time for a loan out but battery was dead.  Battery and alternator, out for two weeks, back for two months, out to my sister for a few days.  She past it to her son who started to have a rough idle and stall.  My Bro-in-Law rescued him but got it back to me by using quick start several times.

Two days later, it starts right up!  I looked at the fuel pump, FPR, etc. for a week with it starting up every time.  Then it started to stall and then start/stall now while never leaving my garage.
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Re: '90 Buick start/stall
Reply #3 - Sep 9th, 2011 at 3:28pm
 
Retired wrote on Sep 9th, 2011 at 1:58pm:
She past it to her son who started to have a rough idle and stall.


That discription of the problem could be a few different things, a crank sensor that fails when it get hot, I've seen mass air flow sensors do this too, tother components that control the igntion system could be at fault too but usually when those parts fail they are done and don't come back to life for a bit then stop then come back etc.  I would look at the 1x and 7x on the crank and the maf signal, keep in mind that the computer is looking for a hertz change on the signal wire.  another quick test is to unplug the maf sensor and see if it will run, this will put the computer in a fail-safe mode.  one more possibility would be the chip on the key is worn.

good luck!

Nathan.
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Re: '90 Buick start/stall
Reply #4 - Sep 9th, 2011 at 3:31pm
 
Retired wrote on Sep 9th, 2011 at 1:58pm:
How do you put it into Bypass mode?


All you do is extract the EST wire from the harness with a terminal tool - thats what id O. But im so good/fast at pulling terminals it takes less time for me to do this than to pull out a jumper wire and figure which wire needs 5 volts to do what.
Bottom line is if you are getting a good crank sensor signal, and the reference signal going to the ECM is bad, the ICM is bad. Here it appears you are having failure of which signal? I cannot see very much here on your files. Is EST signal failing?
Also have you scopes the actual crank sensor or just REF hi? REF hi is the signal created from the crank sensor by the ICM.

The ICM is a common failure on GM vehicles, but it sometimes fails because of the coils, other times due to heat, and other times the ECM is not grounded properly. The ICM gets its ground from the ECM.

You should check out Toms creative lab scope technique page on the autonerdz home site. He goes over these failure quite thoroughly. Wink

I would suspect the wiring first - check it for corrosion and do a wiggle test. (especially crank sensor wiring) Then look at the modules.
Maybe you can post some more waveforms that are a but bigger? I can barely see anything there.....

Finally what is the exact year, make/model vin/engine size? I can help you better if i know for sure
Right now I am guessing a bit on exact operation

You should get yourself a picoscope Wink Smiley
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Re: '90 Buick start/stall
Reply #5 - Sep 9th, 2011 at 4:19pm
 
NathanBirch wrote on Sep 9th, 2011 at 3:28pm:
Retired wrote on Sep 9th, 2011 at 1:58pm:
She past it to her son who started to have a rough idle and stall.


That discription of the problem could be a few different things, a crank sensor that fails when it get hot, I've seen mass air flow sensors do this too, tother components that control the igntion system could be at fault too but usually when those parts fail they are done and don't come back to life for a bit then stop then come back etc.  I would look at the 1x and 7x on the crank and the maf signal, keep in mind that the computer is looking for a hertz change on the signal wire.  another quick test is to unplug the maf sensor and see if it will run, this will put the computer in a fail-safe mode.  one more possibility would be the chip on the key is worn.

good luck!

Nathan.

This is a '90 Buick, long before chip were added to the key(FOB).  It's a 4-wire HEI system, 1X/3X crank signals.  Right now, it doesn't start cold, so a hot crank sensor isn't it.  I first had the scope on EST, Bypass, 3X and 1X.  Then EST, Bypass Ref(Hi) and Ref(Low).  All looked normal so I looked at what I posted, EST, Bypass, Ref(Hi) and 1X.
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Re: '90 Buick start/stall
Reply #6 - Sep 9th, 2011 at 4:41pm
 
Randy H. wrote on Sep 9th, 2011 at 3:31pm:
Retired wrote on Sep 9th, 2011 at 1:58pm:
How do you put it into Bypass mode?


All you do is extract the EST wire from the harness with a terminal tool - thats what id O. But im so good/fast at pulling terminals it takes less time for me to do this than to pull out a jumper wire and figure which wire needs 5 volts to do what.
Bottom line is if you are getting a good crank sensor signal, and the reference signal going to the ECM is bad, the ICM is bad. Here it appears you are having failure of which signal? I cannot see very much here on your files. Is EST signal failing?
Also have you scopes the actual crank sensor or just REF hi? REF hi is the signal created from the crank sensor by the ICM.

The ICM is a common failure on GM vehicles, but it sometimes fails because of the coils, other times due to heat, and other times the ECM is not grounded properly. The ICM gets its ground from the ECM.

You should check out Toms creative lab scope technique page on the autonerdz home site. He goes over these failure quite thoroughly. Wink

I would suspect the wiring first - check it for corrosion and do a wiggle test. (especially crank sensor wiring) Then look at the modules.
Maybe you can post some more waveforms that are a but bigger? I can barely see anything there.....

Finally what is the exact year, make/model vin/engine size? I can help you better if i know for sure
Right now I am guessing a bit on exact operation

You should get yourself a picoscope Wink Smiley

Hard to follow you.  Extract EST with a terminal tool?  I "think" your saying get a 5V signal from elsewhere and put it on the Bypass wire?  At startup?  Can it start that way?  Break that down simpler for me.  Remember, this is the Non-Technician section, I'm a DIY but a retired machine repairman from Ford Motor.

Yes, the Bypass goes to zero, therfore the ICM pulls the EST zero and/or back to base timing and it stalls.

All I have for info is from AllDataDIY.  The diagrams only show two ground circuits or BLK/WHT wires, yet there are four that color on the ECM.  Voltage drop KOEO, the higest read 0.03V, well under the max allowed.

'90 Buick 3.3L VIN N.

I consdered a Pico years ago but the thought of needing a laptop on a stand with wheels didn't sound too good to me.  A Pico would be worth more than the car!

I'll post some bigger bigger pictures later tonight.  Not sure why you can't see the pictures well, maybe you need a better PC or maybe using a smarty phone? Smiley

......

......

......

......

......

Below is the EST, Bypass, 3X and 1x signals.

...
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« Last Edit: Sep 9th, 2011 at 9:05pm by Retired »  

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Re: '90 Buick start/stall
Reply #7 - Sep 9th, 2011 at 8:17pm
 
Retired wrote on Sep 9th, 2011 at 4:41pm:
Hard to follow you.


That’s ok Bill, when we are not on the job with you it can be really frustrating for us.

What Randy was getting at is he wants you to open that EST wire, he is suggesting you remove the terminal from the connector at the engine harness.

What I would want you to do is connect the scope to REF at the ecm and EST at the module and at the ecm to make sure that wire is good at both ends.
Now I would want you to locate the injector feed wires either at the fuse box or at the engine harness and hook up an Amp clamp to measure current of these injectors.
These injectors are bank fired so there will be 2 circuits to hook up to with 1 Amp clamp.

The purpose of my test will be to see if the injectors short out and current rises, does it at this point kill the ECM.
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Re: '90 Buick start/stall
Reply #8 - Sep 9th, 2011 at 8:59pm
 
Mick wrote on Sep 9th, 2011 at 8:17pm:
Retired wrote on Sep 9th, 2011 at 4:41pm:
Hard to follow you.


That’s ok Bill, when we are not on the job with you it can be really frustrating for us.

What Randy was getting at is he wants you to open that EST wire, he is suggesting you remove the terminal from the connector at the engine harness.

What I would want you to do is connect the scope to REF at the ecm and EST at the module and at the ecm to make sure that wire is good at both ends.
Now I would want you to locate the injector feed wires either at the fuse box or at the engine harness and hook up an Amp clamp to measure current of these injectors.
These injectors are bank fired so there will be 2 circuits to hook up to with 1 Amp clamp.

The purpose of my test will be to see if the injectors short out and current rises, does it at this point kill the ECM.

Mick:

Wait a minute!  Open the EST at the ICM?  Ah, isn't that going to make it stall for sure?  That's the spark timing going to the ICM which is what's happening now.  Don't you need the 5V Bypass signal to keep the EST high to control the ICM so the engine runs controlled by the ECM?

There is a Ref(Hi) and Ref(Low).  Not sure which you one you are refering to?  You want to check whatever Ref signal at the ECM, correct?  That way checking the wire?  All of my connections have been at the ICM so far.

I'm at the ICM seeing the EST, so it should be good.

What do you mean by, does it at this point kill the ECM?  Like fry it?

There was one day in the past, where it started, ran a few minutes and stalled.  I looked at some diagrams for thirty minutes.  It started right up and ran till the fan cycled On.  That was in the past and now, it doesn't start.
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Re: '90 Buick start/stall
Reply #9 - Sep 10th, 2011 at 1:35am
 
If the car will not start at all as you stated, and you have a good crank sensor signal, and good power and ground to the module, you have a bad ICM.

model of buick, engine size and vin letter would be very useful to us.
Half the battle is knowing the system you are working on.

If the car has a distributor you will not need to remove bypass terminal at all. It will have a harness you can disconnect - this connector is for setting base timing.

Sorry I forgot that you were not a technician. Wink

Anyhow, Bypass mode is used for timing up to 800 rpm - this is BASE timing. This is a function of the ignition module only. Then after 800 RPM ignition timing is handled by the ECM on the EST circuit. See how this could be useful when suspecting a bad ECM?

Disconnecting bypass MAY cause a stall but it will not prevent the car from starting.

What Mick means by kill the ECM is if you have a shorted injector the ECM will protect itself from  damage by shutting itself down. We can prove this with a current waveform of the injector.

Dont worry we will not have you run any tests that will destroy your car!

I am interested in seeing the crank sensor signal still - It may not be bad itself but that does not rule out oil soaked wiring and chafed wires!
Do not overlook this sensor!







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Re: '90 Buick start/stall
Reply #10 - Sep 10th, 2011 at 5:08am
 
Retired wrote on Sep 9th, 2011 at 8:59pm:
Wait a minute!


Retired wrote on Sep 9th, 2011 at 4:19pm:
It's a 4-wire HEI system,


Please give us the complete serial number

I am having a hard time finding a 3.3L N engine with a distributor.
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Re: '90 Buick start/stall
Reply #11 - Sep 10th, 2011 at 6:55am
 
Randy H. wrote on Sep 10th, 2011 at 1:35am:
If the car will not start at all as you stated, and you have a good crank sensor signal, and good power and ground to the module, you have a bad ICM.

model of buick, engine size and vin letter would be very useful to us.
Half the battle is knowing the system you are working on.

If the car has a distributor you will not need to remove bypass terminal at all. It will have a harness you can disconnect - this connector is for setting base timing.

Sorry I forgot that you were not a technician. Wink

Anyhow, Bypass mode is used for timing up to 800 rpm - this is BASE timing. This is a function of the ignition module only. Then after 800 RPM ignition timing is handled by the ECM on the EST circuit. See how this could be useful when suspecting a bad ECM?

Disconnecting bypass MAY cause a stall but it will not prevent the car from starting.

What Mick means by kill the ECM is if you have a shorted injector the ECM will protect itself from  damage by shutting itself down. We can prove this with a current waveform of the injector.

Dont worry we will not have you run any tests that will destroy your car!

I am interested in seeing the crank sensor signal still - It may not be bad itself but that does not rule out oil soaked wiring and chafed wires!
Do not overlook this sensor!


Look at the last picture in Reply #6 above for the crank signals.

VIN: 1G4AL54N1L6403478, V6 204 3.3L VIN N FI

Okay, I've read several explaination of this ditributor-less 4-wire HEI system.  They all say that the ICM uses base timing during cranking at which time the Bypass is 0V which means the ICM pulls the EST to 0V.  When the RPMs reaches 300-400 RPMs the ECM sends 5V on the Bypass wire at which time the ICM lets the EST go high and the ECM takes over.  Not sure where you get the 800 RPMs figure from?

Now, that all being said, I wondered and forgot about this one point.  In the first picture of the series, I have the 5V Bypass voltage with no Ref(Hi) and barely a EST signal yet?  How can I have the 5V Bypass without the ECM having the Ref(Hi) to determine RPM?
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Re: '90 Buick start/stall
Reply #12 - Sep 10th, 2011 at 8:55am
 
Retired wrote on Sep 10th, 2011 at 6:55am:
Okay, I've read several explaination of this ditributor-less 4-wire HEI system.


First off do you have fuel pressure?

So this is the C(3)I DIS system with 3 separate coils mounted onto the module.

No sign of a distributor on this vehicle correct?

If I have it correct go to the ECM and connect your scope to D8 purple/white DREF and C8 white EST and an Amp clamp on C11 and C12 injectors and put time on the screen to see at least 2 engine cycles
Then zoom in on the injectors to verify for shorts.

You do have an Amp clamp right?

If we don’t have a signal on D8 we will work back from there.
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Re: '90 Buick start/stall
Reply #13 - Sep 10th, 2011 at 10:22am
 
Mick wrote on Sep 10th, 2011 at 8:55am:
Retired wrote on Sep 10th, 2011 at 6:55am:
Okay, I've read several explaination of this ditributor-less 4-wire HEI system.


First off do you have fuel pressure?

So this is the C(3)I DIS system with 3 separate coils mounted onto the module.

No sign of a distributor on this vehicle correct?

If I have it correct go to the ECM and connect your scope to D8 purple/white DREF and C8 white EST and an Amp clamp on C11 and C12 injectors and put time on the screen to see at least 2 engine cycles
Then zoom in on the injectors to verify for shorts.

You do have an Amp clamp right?

If we don’t have a signal on D8 we will work back from there.

Yes, no distributor and no EGR valve either.

Clamp both injector feeds? I can go to the injector fuse, correct?  I have a fuse adapter set.

I have at least four DC clamp probes that I can think of off hand.

What about the point in my reply to Randy about having the 5V Bypass in the first screen picture with the DREF as you call it?
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Re: '90 Buick start/stall
Reply #14 - Sep 10th, 2011 at 11:33am
 
Retired wrote on Sep 10th, 2011 at 10:22am:
What about the point in my reply to Randy about having the 5V Bypass in the first screen picture with the DREF as you call it? 


With not knowing the time scale on that screen I would have to guess that the engine was idleing slower than the othere screens.

Something you have to understand is that dref is buffered inside the ECM, that will give a delay in EST being produced.

Retired wrote on Sep 10th, 2011 at 10:22am:
Clamp both injector feeds? I can go to the injector fuse, correct?I have a fuse adapter set.


The fuse box is ok but you will need 2 fuse adapters.

Why have your scope leads all over the place when you can get what I asked for right from the front seat.
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