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Pico Setups (Read 58,109 times)
crewchief47
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Re: Pico Setups
Reply #165 - Apr 23rd, 2014 at 7:48pm
 
My first rendition.  Harbour freight box, monitor mount from Monoprice with some 2" aluminized pipe.  Datec boom with cables running through screwdriver holes.  Power bar exiting left side (had to hog out a screwdriver hole).  Auto enginuity generic on board.  Maxisys has a home in the office for the time being until I get more experience/work for it.  Small town shop......and I'm early in the learning curve.   Grin

Older 2 channel Pico, non usb style but it came with the amp clamps and clips etc. for $400.  Using a 2 channel OTC Tech scope for the time being until I need/can upgrade.
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richmunch
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Re: Pico Setups
Reply #166 - Oct 25th, 2014 at 7:39pm
 
These set-ups are all so nice and neat. The pictures all gave me some great ideas. I wanted to take a picture of my mess and show how the other half lives. But I keep forgetting. So I will just explain it to you guys.  Smiley

I have an old tool cart with a wheel that falls off when I hit a bump in my cracked shop floor, so my "solution" was to place the heavy MIG welder on the bottom of the cart to add weight so the wheel will not fall off. This saves me the trouble of having the entire cart flip over when the wheel falls off and dumps my laptop, scope, and all the leads I never put away onto the floor. When it did flip over I could only hope it wasn't into a puddle, but it usually was. My MIG welder repair seems to have fixed that.  Cheesy

My backprobe tips are all bent up, then straightened, then bent again. So very few are straight. I often forget to shut my amp clamps off so I have given up on the battery back plates with their tiny screws. So now the nine volt battery just dangles by the wires, but I stuff it back in and it seems to hold on its on weight. Smiley

I had to replace the screen of my old dell d620 laptop myself, but because I am lazy I only put about half the little screws back in to hold the screen in. But it works great.  Wink

And even with most of the stuff being out of the case and left in a total mess on top of my old beaten down crash cart I still can't get the pico case to shut. So I just slide it half open under my tool box when not in use.

I wouldn't have it any other way... Cheesy
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crackerclicker
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Re: Pico Setups
Reply #167 - Oct 25th, 2014 at 9:37pm
 
richmunch wrote on Oct 25th, 2014 at 7:39pm:
I had to replace the screen of my old dell d620 laptop myself



Oh boy, wait 'til the USB ports start to go.   Smiley
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Ward Zintel
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Re: Pico Setups
Reply #168 - Oct 26th, 2014 at 10:12am
 
richmunch wrote on Oct 25th, 2014 at 7:39pm:
I often forget to shut my amp clamps off so I have given up on the battery back plates with their tiny screws. So now the nine volt battery just dangles by the wires,

A man of "temporary measures", I like that! I can do it at home on some things, at work and with tools it drives me nuts. For your amp clamps save elastic bands as you find them, you can use them to retain the batteries. One cable tie around the clamp would also do the trick.
If the mig welder works I would lay a strategic bead on the offending wheel so it can't fall out, then give the welder it's own cart, but that's just me!
It would be interesting to see a photo of your set up.
I gave the case my PICO came in to the boss to store her Snap On Modis in, I think it made it run a little faster....... She has since bought a Verus.
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Anthony Lamb
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Re: Pico Setups
Reply #169 - Nov 11th, 2014 at 4:23am
 
Here is my little set up.

Ended up making it after getting annoyed with tripping over leads all the time.

Kind of copied Rod's and the Datec boom set ups.

The PVC pipe was cheap, time will only tell if it holds up in the shop.
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Eddie
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Re: Pico Setups
Reply #170 - Nov 11th, 2014 at 2:20pm
 
Hey that looks great Anthony.

With my setup, I placed the boom to the left of the diag trolley. I notice yours is to the right.
Reason for being on the left is whilst connected up under the bonnet of the vehicle, there is clear user access between the leads and the drivers door to operate the ignition as well as the scope etc.
I also made a hinged arm fitted to the end of the boom that formed a further extension to hang leads overhead to give improved clear user access between the scope & vehicle. The arm swung back over the length of the boom when not in use.
Check out my pics in the Buy & Sell area of Rod's site.

Having a well organised diag trolley setup is a must I reckon! Its great to share ideas & inspire others to get the best out of their equipment.

Hope yr new job out of the dealership world is going really well  Smiley
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Eddie
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rod_au
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Re: Pico Setups
Reply #171 - Nov 11th, 2014 at 5:07pm
 
Good job Anthony. Smiley

Do you have multiple inputs connected in series for each channel in your boom box?
I avoided doing this by using DPDT switches to switch between inputs. That way other connected leads/probes do not act as an antenna.
I used shielded cable all of the way up to the BNC sockets to protect from RFI.

The first TaT magazine issue of next year (issue 43) will have plans and instructions for my boom design.

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Spence
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Re: Pico Setups
Reply #172 - Nov 11th, 2014 at 6:54pm
 
Nice job Anthony!
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Re: Pico Setups
Reply #173 - Nov 12th, 2014 at 4:11am
 
Anthony, Looks great!

What is the smaller box mounted lower on the boom with only three sets of connectors?

Rod, or anyone else that knows, are there any certain ratings when looking for shielded wire?  I still haven't made a boom, but would like to make one.  And would like to do it only once.
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Anthony Lamb
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Re: Pico Setups
Reply #174 - Nov 12th, 2014 at 4:23am
 
Eddie wrote on Nov 11th, 2014 at 2:20pm:
Reason for being on the left is whilst connected up under the bonnet of the vehicle, there is clear user access between the leads and the drivers door to operate the ignition as well as the scope etc.


I didn't think of that, slight oversight on my part there  Embarrassed.
I'll figure out a work around

The tool box swivel castors are left that was why I put the boom on the right, my other roll cabs have the swivel castors on the right.

rod_au wrote on Nov 11th, 2014 at 5:07pm:
Do you have multiple inputs connected in series for each channel in your boom box?


yeah I daisy chained them together.rod_au wrote on Nov 11th, 2014 at 5:07pm:
I avoided doing this by using DPDT switches to switch between inputs. That way other connected leads/probes do not act as an antenna.


So far noise hasn't been a issue. everything is shielded cable apart from inside the box.
If I do get that Issue I'll throw some switches in them, I'll keep an eye out in the next TaT mag.

Just trying to keep in mind magnets to avoid the headache Karl had with his setup.

With using it so far I think the banana sockets will only be used to hold the leads when not in use, most my gear is all BNC connectors.


rod_au wrote on Nov 11th, 2014 at 5:07pm:
I used shielded cable all of the way up to the BNC sockets to protect from RFI.


I did the same.

When connecting it all up I was about 2 m short of wire on the last channel.

rod_au wrote on Nov 11th, 2014 at 5:07pm:
The first TaT magazine issue of next year (issue 43) will have plans and instructions for my boom design.


I remember the instructions up on here somewhere for your boom with the publisher documents for the stickers you used.

You should go into manufacturing the booms, I'd be willing to buy one  Wink.

Eddie wrote on Nov 11th, 2014 at 2:20pm:
Hope yr new job out of the dealership world is going really well


It is going ok so far there hasn't been too many difficult problem vehicles came in, just rewired a whole bunch of aftermarket equipment on a land cruiser. That was a headache and I think I lost some hair on that one.

Spence wrote on Nov 11th, 2014 at 6:54pm:
Nice job Anthony!


Thanks Spence
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rod_au
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Re: Pico Setups
Reply #175 - Nov 12th, 2014 at 10:53am
 
Scott,
I purchased a large roll of shielded RG58 network cable.
I have a pair of crimping pliers and I purchase the BNC ends so that I can make up my own custom probes.
This cable is well shielded and soft enough to manipulate into tight positions. I have compared the signal on the Pico with the original Pico leads and my homemade leads and I have seen no problems with RFI or signal degradation using this cable.
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Re: Pico Setups
Reply #176 - Nov 12th, 2014 at 1:50pm
 
Anthony Lamb wrote on Nov 12th, 2014 at 4:23am:
The tool box swivel castors are left that was why I put the boom on the right, my other roll cabs have the swivel castors on the right.



Yeah I get yr rationale there Anthony.
Regards castors, as another feature of my diag trolley (designed from the ground up lol), I replaced the pair of fixed castors with swivelling castor wheels to allow the cab to be moved & positioned with greater ease. With all 4 wheels swivelling, it made a huge difference with moving the entire diag trolley to just the right spot.
My pics on Rod's site didn't reveal that feature lol.

Should you  choose to do a work around for your boom orientation its not a biggee I think... as is though, it would suit LHD countries like USA  Wink

Glad the new job is going ok so far  Smiley
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Eddie
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Re: Pico Setups
Reply #177 - Nov 13th, 2014 at 3:58am
 
BMW Scott wrote on Nov 12th, 2014 at 4:11am:
What is the smaller box mounted lower on the boom with only three sets of connectors?


For my vantage and vantage pro.

Plan there was to use the supplied leads with the unit and use the longer pico leads, mainly for having the VP on charge while doing parasitic draw testing over long periods.

Here was a picture before it was finished
Just ignore the back ground Wink

BMW Scott wrote on Nov 12th, 2014 at 4:11am:
anyone else that knows, are there any certain ratings when looking for shielded wire?


The wire I used on my amp clamps after the inside of the cable went open circuit. I haven't had issues with noise or attenuation of the signal with this wire.

Not sure where you would source it from in the US.

It isn't the best to have around hot parts ans the outside is pretty thin, but cheap to replace though if it is damaged.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=WB1500&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=993#1

I ended up using about 20m of this stuff in the boom for the channels.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=WB1530&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=993#1

If I was going to do it again I'd use what Rod said with some crimps and a roll of wire, save on the old fingers getting singed from the soldering iron.

Eddie wrote on Nov 12th, 2014 at 1:50pm:
Should you  choose to do a work around for your boom orientation its not a biggee I think... as is though, it would suit LHD countries like USA


It is going to annoy the hell out of me now, won't be to bad though the leads are long enough and the position of the boom I can walk under it without ducking.

I may have to work solely on LHD vehicles or just move over there so my boom will work right, some days it is tempting Wink.
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BMW Scott
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Re: Pico Setups
Reply #178 - Nov 13th, 2014 at 8:05pm
 
Anthony Lamb wrote on Nov 13th, 2014 at 3:58am:
Not sure where you would source it from in the US.


This looks pretty close to what you used.

http://www.markertek.com/product/291/west-penn-wire-291-22-awg-2-conductor-cable...
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Re: Pico Setups
Reply #179 - Dec 16th, 2014 at 8:00pm
 
Just updated my set up. I took some advice and ditched the aluminum boom, relocated the power strip away from the scope. I also made a new boom head and attenuator switch box. Thanks Rod for all the ideas!
so far it works great
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