Where did you hook up the pico on this wave? What cylinder?
Something is definitely not right here - one of the firing voltages is below 1kv and it happens rythmicly.

Also - I noticed this spike on one of the firings that the kv was very high....it looks like something is arcing before the plug fires - bad wire, etc.
Be very careful - you can fry the scope on stray secondary voltage.....
Try spraying some diluted ammonia and water around the secondary wires (if it has wires)
But it looks like to me something is arcing.

The car has a Distributor, and i get these low lines at about 0,5 KW
at all cylinders, even if i hook it to the lead from the coil to the
distributor.

But the Coil has good ground (0,05-0,1V interferences) and
a stable power (no bad drop outs in the Voltage)

When i choose the settings from the Menu with the trigger and
pull it a little down, i get this.Taken from the cable Coil>DIST :
Frist with 27KW Setting, 2. at 9 KW setting...

Chris

Now they should go

Cheers Brad. 

Wasn't sure. But I can download them now.

Christian, the days a bit long now but if you can get a longer time base on the screen say 500ms a division to start off with, -1 - 9Kv and 2MSsec sample rate it'll give the guys something to look over (they may then need another set up) then someone can give you some pointers on what to do next.

Did you get a chance to do a compression test on this engine?

Andy.

If you look at the file, some have arc spikes, showing the arc from the rotor to cap terminal, and some don't. This means that something is wrong inside the cap or the rotor - I am betting corrosion or water.
I would remove the cap and rotor and inspect it. It may be that you have a carbon track inside which makes sense from one of your captures - looks something like a carbon track......
And a falling spark line like at the beginning of the burn line below indicates high resistance.

Keep in mind that even going off the coil wire it will still show how much voltage it takes to bridge the rotor/cap, and all the problems after the coil as well (with the scope). Its not like the old spark test where you check to see if the coil is good or not, and eliminate the distributor as a problem. (with the scope hooked up the distrinutor is still connected.)

Bottom line - check your rotor and cap - Personally I dont think you need any more captures to justify inspection/replacement.

But, if you have any doubts, it would really be helpful to take a few hundred captures at a longer timebase instead of looking at just one capture at a short timebase. Take your captures off the coil wire and use the number one cylinder as a synch so we can ID the cylinders.

The ammonia helps the water spread out without beading.

I didn´t  really see anything bad in the cap oder finger,
but i will put a new one on and then make another shot
when he is back.